The King of the Sea

Atlantic mackerel are fast-moving, fast-growing predatory fish, with perfect camouflage on the top to protect them from the dreaded gulls,"sky pirates," above. They have white-blue bellies to blend into the sky, hopefully confusing other, bigger predators below. Mackerel are the real kings of the sea; after all, they are from the same family as the mighty tuna.

Although mackerel are best known for being a summer fish, they can now be caught throughout the year from the southwest coast of Cornwall. In fact, I think they taste nicer in the winter months, probably due to the fact that they travel better from boat to market and from market to plate. It really is a case of "fresh is best" with these beautiful mini tunas. I would say that two days max from sea to plate is the aim of the game. Commercially, the best and most sustainable way to catch mackerel is with hook and line on small day boats, as bycatch of other species is rare. It’s important to note that there is no way to fish completely without impact, but in my experience, that people who go out on their own, sometimes in bad weather on a small boat, fishing by hand, are more concerned about preserving our seas than anyone else. They do what they do for the love of the sea and what’s in it, not for the money—that’s for sure. With a little perseverance, it is possible to catch mackerel from the rocks, even in the winter. Fishing for them a couple of hours before high tide will usually bring you the best luck.

I tell my kids when we go fishing together that if you catch a fish and you are going to keep it for the table, you have to treat it with respect. I’m sure from the mackerel’s perspective, no death is a good one, but a quick one is better, I’m sure. A quick snap of the spine or a sharp spike (Ikejime) to the brain is best. With what feels like a love letter to these beauties, it’s fitting that we give them the end they truly deserve as we send them to their final resting place. Recipes are only as good as the ingredients you use, and this has never been truer with regard to mackerel.

Grilled Mackerel with Bread and Butter

Grill two super fresh mackerel fillets with salt and some olive oil until just cooked. Serve with good bread and butter (always salted). Mayonnaise and lemon are optional yet very welcome.